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In the early morning when the sea breeze caresses you and the sun gently pours down, the boat slowly pulls out from the shore of Milne Bay, where the coral shallows fluoresce under the crystal clear water. You stand on the deck and look out over the distant promontory tucked away in the rainforest that is Tawali Dive Resort - an underwater secret hidden from divers and Papua New Guinea's most incredible blue inlet.
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Tawali Dive Resort is located in the Alotau region of southeastern Papua New Guinea, tucked away in the mountains and tucked away in the sea amongst pristine forests and coral reefs. More than just a diving destination, it is a testament to the long history of marine culture in the Milne Bay area.
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Alotau was part of the Kula Circle trading system, where for centuries islanders traveled the sea in traditional dugout canoes, exchanging shells, pottery, and spices, and where Tawali's waters became a meeting place of cultures and marine ecologies. Today, the resort employs a large number of local staff, and visitors can get up close and personal with the local dances, music and way of life through village visits or nightly bonfires.
Tawali means “high place” - the resort sits on a limestone platform above the sea, overlooking a blue bay. The design is a continuation of the traditional “living by the sea”, but also a reflection of respecting nature and building with the elements. Living here is like making an ancient agreement with the land and the sea.
Tawali Dive Resort is an attraction in itself. The timber-framed main building and the cluster of chalets seem to float between the rainforests, and all the buildings are constructed using local timber and traditional craftsmanship. Both the sea-view balconies and open-air restaurants maximize the flow of natural light and wind. You can watch the sunrise from your private balcony or snooze in a hammock at the end of the wooden pier, listening to the birds and cicadas chirping in the coconut grove.
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The real draw, though, is the spread of dive sites around it. World-renowned dive sites can be reached within a half-hour boat ride from the resort: Deacon's Reef, Wahoo Point, Lauadi and Observation Point are among them.
Deacon's Reef is a photographer's paradise, filled with giant sponges and active macro life;
Wahoo Point, on the other hand, is known for its big offshore life, with sharks, eagle rays, and trevally often seen;
Lauadi is an excellent spot for muck diving, with all sorts of strange and bizarre microorganisms hiding in the mud and sand;
Observation Point is a favorite for night dives, where glow-in-the-dark creatures make their appearance like an intergalactic journey.
If you don't dive, Tawali has snorkeling routes, canoeing adventures, natural limestone caves, and coastal rainforest hikes for the more adventurous.
Papua New Guinea has a tropical climate and is suitable for diving all year round, but the best diving season is from May to November. This is a time of stable sea conditions and high visibility, making it ideal for underwater photography and offshore diving.
The rainy season is from December to April, and although temperatures are still favorable, rainfall can affect underwater visibility and some of the offshore dive sites may be temporarily closed. However, the rainy season has the advantage of being less crowded and quieter for travelers who want to avoid the rush and experience some quiet tropical time.
In addition, the Milne Bay area where Tawali is located is in the center of the Coral Triangle, and the water temperature remains between 26-29°C throughout the year, so a 3mm wetsuit is sufficient. Even during the rainy season, the abundance of underwater life is not compromised, making it ideal for the macro-photographer who prefers to “dig for treasures”.
Although Tawali Dive Resort is located in a remote rainforest cape, the overall hospitality system is very sophisticated. Arrival is usually by flight into Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, transferring to Gurney Airport in Alotau, where the resort arranges a transfer to the jetty and a 30-minute boat ride.
The resort offers standard rooms and deluxe sea view villas, each with individual air-conditioning, hot water bathrooms and large balconies. The common areas feature a pool, library, dive equipment room and photo booth. Wi-Fi is available (albeit spotty) in the main building and visitors are more encouraged to put down their cell phones and get back to nature.
The dive center organizes 2-3 boat dives per day, with refreshments and fruit served on board. Each diver is provided with their own storage box and towel, a full range of cylinders (including Nitrox mixes and large 15L bottles), or full equipment can be rented. The resort also supports SSI and PADI courses for novice and advanced learners.
Non-divers won't be bored either: with spa services, yoga classes with ocean views, guided botanical explorations, and seafood cooking classes taught by a local chef, Tawali is an all-encompassing resort rather than a closed base for “divers only”.
A minimum stay of 4 nights is recommended to fully experience the different dive sites; if you have the time, 6 nights is ideal.
Pack anti-mosquito spray and lightweight, long-sleeved clothing before you go, as mosquitoes are prevalent in the tropics, so be careful when spending time outdoors at night.
Photography equipment is recommended to bring a waterproof bag and desiccant, the local high humidity, electronic equipment is prone to moisture.
When entering or leaving the country, pay attention to the transfer interval, Port Moresby airport is small but strict security checks, you need to leave enough time to deal with emergencies.
Book dive packages in advance through the resort, often with seasonal discounts or complimentary night dives, Nitrox and other services.
Evaluate your ability when underwater currents are strong, some dive sites are not suitable for beginners and you need to follow your dive guide to dive safely.
Don't miss the hammocks and beers at sunset, when Tawali is at its purest, as if the whole bay is glowing just for you.
If you are on a tight schedule, you can also opt for the “Tawali Day Dive Express”: leave Alotau early in the morning, take a boat to Tawali, complete 2 dives + lunch + a short break, and return in the evening. Although it is not as complete as the overnight experience, it is still a great way to get a feel for the unique charm of this area, and is suitable for travelers who decide to “go for it” on the spur of the moment.
Suggested dive sites: Lauadi + Deacon's Reef - one is delicate and the other is colorful and expansive, creating a contrast of styles to suit different preferences.
The day I left Tawali, I looked back from the stern of the boat, the rainforest was fading away and the sea was as calm and bright as the first time I saw it. This is not only a diver's paradise, but also a place where “the world as it is” is still preserved. Perhaps what you are diving is not water, but a gap in time; what you are staying is not a hotel, but a journey to restart your senses. Next time, come to this sea, talk to the coral and whales, and dive with yourself.