All the way north from Puno, as the car climbed the hills and the wind rattled the windows, I stared at the row of cylindrical stone towers in the distance and the thought popped into my head, “If I get lost here, will I run into the ghosts of an ancient civilization?” It was a joke, of course, but it wasn't all wrong - Sillustani really is the kind of place where you can't help but stand in awe. It's not like Machu Picchu, not like Uluwatu, it's a kind of “shock in solitude”, standing there, you can feel not the tourists, is the silence of time.
Advertisement
The most fascinating thing about the Sulus Tombstone Complex is that it is not quite like the Incas. These towers are called “Chullpas”, burial structures built by the Colla people before the Incas. In other words, what you see here is not Inca architecture, but traces of the Inca's “predecessor” civilization.
Advertisement
Each tower is like a giant beehive made of stone, the shortest of which is more than two meters high, while the tallest is almost 12 meters high, and the interior is empty for the nobles or priests to be buried together with their treasures. The real Chullpas are said to face the direction of the rising sun, which is not just a religious symbol, but a reflection of their cosmology: death is not the end, but the beginning of rebirth.
When you stand under the tower and look up, you'll be amazed at the geometric precision, the fit of the stones (like Lego, really), which was accomplished in a time when the tools were extremely rudimentary, not to mention the construction workers, and even the modern people have to be admired.
And unlike the usual Inca square walls, these towers have rounded bases and are slightly tapered, more like sculptures than tombs. You might even wonder: is this a tomb? Why does it look like a work of art?
Many people's first reaction when they arrive at the Sulus Tomb Complex is to rush up high, trying to get a panoramic view. But I suggest you - don't rush to climb the mountain first, walk around Umayo Lake and slowly walk up from the lake, it will give you a more immersive feeling of “walking into an ancient civilization”.
Advertisement
Here's my tried-and-tested itinerary:
Exit the ticket office and walk slowly along the lake path.
The lake is as quiet as a mirror, local sheep often pass by, and small abandoned tomb towers can be seen in the distance. Along the way, it's possible to quietly take in the changing environment - from grassy to rocky, from open to barren.
Arrive at the first Chullpa
This is one of the better preserved “Lagarto Towers”, with weathered lizard carvings visible on the surface of the stone, a symbol of the owner's family. A closer look reveals the precision of the joints between the different layers of stone.
Climb higher and see the remains of the towers as you go!
Each “broken” tower is a clue to research. You can see that some of the towers were split open by lightning, while others were collapsed by grave robbers forcing their way in, giving you a great sense of “adventure”.
Eventually you arrive at the viewing platform
Standing here and looking back is the best angle for a panoramic view - the lake, the mountains and the tomb towers converge in a line. The wind is super strong, remember to wear a hat, but not too loose, or your hat will be blown away as a “flying sacrifice”.
The charm of the Sulus necropolis lies not only in the architecture itself, but also in the atmosphere it creates: a little desolate, a little spooky, but very powerful.
The weather factor is very important.
If you choose to visit after 3pm, the light will start to warm up and the shadows of the Tomb Towers lengthen, which makes for the most atmospheric photos.
If you come early in the morning, the tower will look like a Peruvian version of Lord of the Rings.
It is not recommended to come in the middle of the day, the direct sunlight is too strong, but the mystery is lost.
There are a lot of myths and legends
The locals say that if you stand alone at the top of the tower at night, you will hear whispers, as if the spirits of the Cora people are still discussing their fate. This is of course a legend, but to be honest, the wind blowing in your ears and the air so thin that you can't breathe really gives you the illusion that you don't belong in the modern world.
Although the Sulus Tomb Tower Complex is not as dangerous as other high-altitude attractions, here are some tips you should remember if you want to have a relaxing time:
How to get there with the least amount of effort?
It's easiest to drive or charter a bus from downtown Puno, which is about a 45-minute trip. There are also small tours that arrange half-day trips, which are cheaper but will rush the trip. For photos + free time, we recommend chartering a bus or getting a private day tour.
What kind of shoes to wear? It's really crucial!
The terrain is mostly gravel + grass + mud, not too steep but slippery. Hiking shoes or at least non-slip sneakers are recommended. Don't wear canvas shoes or flip-flops.
What to bring?
Sunglasses, sunscreen, hat (windy must be hat tied tight)
Water bottle (no stores at scenic spots)
Snacks/energy bars
Cell phone + rechargeable battery (taking pictures consumes electricity quickly)
Suggestions for photo-taking skills
Tomb tower and people with huge proportions, shooting portraits is recommended to shoot low angle up, in order to show the sense of scale;
The reflection of the lake surface is suitable for reflection composition, especially in the early morning;
Don't forget to take pictures of the “shadow of the towers”, a point of beauty that many people overlook.
Sulus is not the kind of “lively” attractions, it is like an old wise man, do not talk much, but can let you stand there quietly, hear the echo of time. You won't see tourists crowding around, nor will there be a tour guide shouting on the loudspeaker to gather, only the sound of the wind, the stone towers and the light of the lake in the distance. If you are a bit interested in history, a bit impulsive to adventure, and do not like the noise of crowds, then the Sulus Tomb Tower Complex will be one of the quietest and most moving stops on your trip to Peru.
