If you've already seen Chan Chan's earthen maze in Trujillo or the golden murals of Huaca del Sol, you might think you know a thing or two about Peru's ancient civilizations. But when you arrive at the El Brujo Archaeological Complex, you'll probably be “smacked in the face” - this site, located in the coastal desert, has a more mysterious, primitive, and “sorcerous” feel. This site in the coastal desert has a more mysterious, primitive, and “voodoo” feel to it, and there's more to the story behind it than you might think.
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When it comes to El Brujo, it's not the architecture, it's not the pottery, it's the ornately dressed, tattooed witch priestess, Señora de Cao, who was discovered at the site in 2006, and scientists were amazed to discover that not only was she in a position of power, but that she may have been ruler who held power around 400 AD.
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Note oh this is very rare in the male dominated Moche culture. Her tattooed totems, burial goods and multi-layered ceremonial layout all indicate that she was extremely influential during her lifetime. When you stand in front of her tomb, you really get the feeling that “she's right here staring at you”. This archaeological discovery not only rewrote the history of Peru, but also changed the perception of the role of Andean women.
So El Brujo is not only a site, it is also the scene of a breakthrough in “cultural prejudice”.
El Brujo is not an all-encompassing site, but rather it is divided into several zones, and we recommend that you visit them in this order to save energy and progress through the layers:
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Huaca Cao Viejo The main temple.
This is the main structure and consists of several layers of rammed earth platforms. You will see a large number of colorful bas-reliefs on the walls depicting scenes of war, rituals, dances, etc., some of which can be considered quite “gory”. One of the most recommended bas-reliefs is the powerful image of a “god-man” with arms spread out and a feathered crown on his head.
Tomb of Lady Gao
Located in the elevated part of the main temple, protected by a glass cover, the interior of the tomb and the funerary artifacts will make you marvel at the artistic level of the Moche culture. You can also see the tattoo designs on her body, reconstructed with modern technology and displayed on interactive screens.
Museo Cao
This is the part you must take the time to see properly. Not only is Mrs. Cao's mummy body on display here, but there are also 3D reconstructions of her features, artifacts, metalwork, textiles, and the religious implications of her death. The entire collection is modern and uses a lot of multimedia displays that won't tire you out.
Viewing Platform
From the site's elevated position, you can see the landscape where the coastline meets the desert, and there is a sense of the emptiness of “Mother Earth”. You will understand why the ancient people built the temple in such a desolate place - it is really “close to heaven and earth”.
Address: About 60 kilometers from the center of Trujillo, about 1.5 hours by car, near the town of Magdalena de Cao.
Transportation: We recommend taking a taxi or chartering a bus, or joining a day tour through a tour company (many of which are combined with a visit to Huaca de la Luna), there are also a few buses that go to the town of Magdalena de Cao, but they are not easy to connect to.
Admission: about 15 soles (about $4 USD), including entrance to the ruins and museum; it's advisable to check opening times in advance, usually 9am-4pm daily.
Suggestions for guided tours: Spanish-speaking guides can be hired on-site, and there are also explanatory signs in English; if you want to hear it in more detail, it is recommended to download or print out the explanatory materials in English in advance (PDFs are available on the official Museo Cao website).
Weather: close to the coast, windy and dusty, recommended to wear sunglasses and hats; the ground is sandy, wearing non-slip sneakers is best.
Tips for taking photos: The colors of the wall reliefs can vary dramatically depending on the angle of the sun, so it is recommended to visit in the morning, when the light is soft and suitable for photography.
Surprises in town: Magdalena de Cao is a small town, but stop by and try the local seafood, especially Ceviche and Chicharrón de Pescado, some of the restaurants are located in residents' homes and are very local.
Souvenirs: There is a small store at the exit of the museum that sells reproduction Moche-style pottery and gold jewelry, as well as postcards and figurines of the head of Madame Gauguin, which are inexpensive and of good quality.
Toilets and water: the museum has modern facilities with clean restrooms and water points, but it is not very easy to buy water on the road, so it is advisable to bring your own bottled water.
El Brujo is not only a paradise for archaeology fans, but also a place where one can re-conceptualize “power”, “faith” and “femininity”. Between the dunes and the sea breeze, the temple ruins and reliefs are like whispers from the past, slowly telling you about another version of civilization. If you're willing to slow down, open your eyes, and open your senses, this little excursion will be more than worth it - not only will you get to play with history, but it may also make you rethink some of your modern prejudices and perceptions.
